Chi Yarawagu / 仟穆: Kushiyaki in Sheung Wan

Introduced to this restaurant on a date where I was more enamoured with the food than my date, the former with which I have since cultivated a long steady relationship with, and the latter with whom I unfortunately cannot say the same for. Chi Yarawagu is a nook I've been going back to with close friends.

It is a kushiyaki - a Japanese restaurant that specialises in charcoal-grilled skewers. Yakitori may be a more familiar term to most, but it is actually a specialised type of kushiyaki that focuses primarily on chicken skewers. The variety of skewers at a kushiyaki is therefore much broader, including meats, seafood, and vegetables.

Finding the restaurant

Nestled right next to Halfway Coffee on Upper Lascar Row, this small restaurant is easy to miss. Tucked into a divot between two antique street stalls, the restaurant takes on a speakeasy-like character - difficult it is to spot and all too easy for passers-by breeze past. It doesn't help that the restaurant only operates from 4-11pm, Tuesday to Sunday, and that its cement-like façade camouflages it into the street. The sole indication of its presence is a solitary light box sign, casually placed on the sidewalk when it is open for business. Just when the rest of Upper Lascar Row closes for business, Chi Yarawagu opens for theirs.

No frills, no fancy set up.

The set up

Run by a chef and a couple staff, the restaurant only has around 20 covers. A number that is sizeable considering the main cooking unit is but a simple charcoal grill, slim and just about a metre-long.

The covers are set around the open kitchen. There are grey bar stools, and narrow stone bar counters on which grey ceramic ware are neatly placed for service. It is in this environment of simplicity where the magic happens. No frills, no fancy set up. A singular focus on the man standing guard over the grill, turning skewers according to a timer wholly internalised. It's an art.

Minimalism seems to be the running theme of this restaurant, from the restaurant layout, number of covers, interior design, to the deft movements of the chef.

The food

Though, there is nothing minimalist about the menu, it is pretty extensive with skewers of all chicken parts, some seafood, beef, lamb, pork, and plenty of vegetable options. There are even rice balls, noodles, and desserts on offer.

It's the type of menu where you'd want to try absolutely everything. Or at least, make plans to come back so that all things can be tried.

Plenty skewers on the menu deserve praise, but allow me to jot down a few so that this remains a 3 minute read:

• Thigh

• Minced chicken skewer

• Liver

• Eel

• Pork belly

• Pork wrapped shiso roll

• Gingko

• Lamb rack

The skewers are often lightly seasoned, but perfectly so, drawing out the natural sweetness and umami of each cut of meat and vegetable. My favourite skewer would be the minced chicken skewer, served with a raw egg-soy sauce dip. Lightly glazed in sweet soy sauce, caramelised, it is soft to the bite with a slight crunch from finely chopped cartilage - a true show-stopper. Other skewers could be shared, but this one, hog to yourself. You won't regret it.

Another notable mention is the udon in chicken soup. The broth is thick with collagen. It's the perfect hangover cure, and where your visit to Chi Yawaragu peaks after you've inhaled a bunch of skewers and downed a few beers. You cannot miss ordering this highlight.

It's perfect in its simplicity

Last but not least - dessert. I have to give a nod to the sesame ice cream. Nutty, fragrant, lightly sweetened and creamy, it's perfect in its simplicity. Just the right sweet treat to end the meal.

Gochisōsama deshita

I'm telling you now, but Chi Yawaragu is my secret spot. I seriously contemplated keeping it to myself before, and as, I wrote this out. It's a spot I take good friends to. A spot made for long conversations on a rainy summer's night. You're so very welcome.