embla: a solid treat

Resting in a quiet corner of Sheung Wan, at the bottom of the growingly chic Tai Ping Shan Street, embla is a fine dining restaurant serving contemporary Nordic cuisine headed by Chef Jim Löfdahl.

Allow me to manage expectations

Embla is both a treat in terms of dining experience and price point, but, a treat worth it all. It celebrates the exceptional culinary arts of Chef Jim, and hospitality delivered by restaurant manager Andy Badua and the service team. Rarely do I find an underrated fine-dining experience, if anything they’re almost always overvalued - embla is an exception. 

Upon the first sip of their Finnish fish soup (lohikeitto), I knew I was in for a remarkable degustation. I knew I’d be introduced to a whole new world of Nordic cuisine I know nothing about. And I also knew that I would have to bring my family back for a treat if the dishes that followed were of a similar caliber as the first course they served, which they have simply labeled as “Nordic snacks” and gave no justice to the masterpieces they were. 

Let's jump into the tasting menu

There is only one menu at embla, and that is the tasting one. You have the option to add a sharing dish of smoked eel, pickled herring, caviar paired with vodka (Gubbröra), or do a wine pairing. But for the first-time at embla, this may feel like a bit of a commitment you’re not ready for just yet. Fret not, you can save those add ons for the next time you visit; which you undoubtedly will, following your first. 

Let me focus on the tasting menu and save discussions on the wine and Gubbröra for a moment later - they deserve their own section.

The dinner tasting menu is made up of 7 courses (the lunch would be a course shorter). The first was mentioned - Nordic Snacks. Other than the stunning fish soup/ lohikeitto, a two-bite snack is also served to kickstart the tasting menu. Whilst the Nordic name of it has escaped me, the taste of it definitely lingered. On top of a takoyaki-looking pancake, a slice of smoked trout, minced trout, and edible flower has been precariously stacked on top of each other. The pancake itself is filled with more trout. The warm pancake and cold toppings of fish is all the beauty of trout (cooked, uncooked, smoked or unsmoked) can offer, packed in two bites. And considering that the Finnish soup felt like a creamy condensation of monkfish, cod and mussels that screams umami and freshness, the tasting menu is off to an unbelievable start. I was thoroughly surprised at the courage of Chef Jim for starting off so strong as it does raise the bar incredibly high for the courses to come. 

But Chef Jim does not disappoint.

In fact, he punches through those high expectations with flourish and ease, leaving you stunned at the end of every course. 

Let's rock on - like the exquisite pop and rock playlist they have on (I would have paid more attention to it if it weren't for the mind-blowing dishes that were served one after the other.)

After the snacks, a stunning dish of mackerel was served. Plated like the petals of a spring flower, slices of silver mackerel sashimi were served on top of pickled mackerel and finished with a pour of clear tomato essence. The dish is incredibly delicate and refreshing in flavour and texture. The mackerel was so fresh it only had a sweet earthy flavour. Yum.

The next course is an ordinary-looking sour milk bread that is anything but ordinary.

Just about the size of your fist, the house-made bread is hands-down the best bread in town. That's how Andy introduced it to us, and he was not wrong. Because of its size, much of the bread is crust and the golden skin has an addictive crumbly texture. The crust envelopes the warm, soft, malty insides of the bread and when paired with their house-churned butter (layered with pumpkin seeds and fresh herbs), every bite is one of homely comfort. Every bite brings either a textural or flavour complexity, and when you get a bite of roasted pumpkin seeds, you get an extra salty kick of mischief. I never thought I would describe bread as sexy, but here I am - this was one hell of a sexy-tasting bread. Phew, someone bring me a fan.

It truly was a curiously enjoyable feeling when the senses on your palate are fully triggered. It's a ride invisible to the eye, which makes dining an embla such a personal experience.

Continuing on this adventure is the fish course. The cod is steamed to perfection, with the flesh just flaking and still translucent. Wrapped in a piece of charred cabbage and served on top of a creamy mushroom velouté accented with garum (a fermented fish sauce), it's a fish course full of soft layers.

Just when you think there can be no more surprises, Chef Jim strikes again with his meat course - aged duck served with a fruity savoury sauce of saffron, orange and sea buckthorn. Two tender cuts of breast are selected from the beautifully presented duck first pictured. Maple-syrup glazed, just cooked with the flesh still a little pink. I'll keep the descriptions brief so that you can discover and experience the menu for yourself; you simply have to!

So let me take you to the end of the menu. Dessert. Or as embla calls it, fika (the Swedish tradition of a coffee/ tea break to slow down and socialise with friends over a sweet treat). Whilst I am skipping out on describing the strawberry sorbet palate cleanser, I'd like give a bit more space to fika and the intimate hospitality embla provides.

For fika, embla serves sponge cakes that are immaculately golden brown, with a crust that has a bite to it. The fluffy sponge is served warm, with a light dusting of powdered sugar. Its subtle floral and cinnamon flavour is reminiscent of the warmth of spring. Whilst there is a choice between coffee or tea, I was gently nudged towards the coffee option by Andy despite it being 10pm in evening. In hindsight, I can only thank him, for the coffee was indeed excellent.

The beauty of embla

As promised, a nod to the hospitality at embla, the wines, and the Gubbröra is due.

On my first visit to embla, I had a glass of Solaris - a white grape variety grown in Sweden, with roots in Riesling, Muscat and Pinot Gris, which I've never tried before. The appley and floral wine layered with oak flavours is a great pairing for many seafood courses on the tasting menu. I was also introduced to a range of Aquavit, courtesy of Andy, which puts vodka to shame - it was clean, pure and burned my chest like blue fire (I'll be staying away from that unless I'm scheduled for a night out after). This, on top of the 3 cups of coffee I had, meant I definitely should have gone out that night.

Speaking of coffee and alcohol, I was also given a tipple of Kask, a coffee liqueur that felt like an adult tiramisu in liquid form - a description I shared with Andy, which led to our creation: a shot of Kask mixed with a touch of frothed milk. I dub the concoction 'Kaskm', (the second 'k' is silent), for it's a drink that will probably lead to split opinions, and may offend the Swedish given the nature of the sacrilegious mix.

I've heard that Andy has been suggesting Kaskm to some guests so if you do get a taste of it when you visit - you're welcome.

Thanks to the phenomenal experience I had in embla, I went again a week after with my mother in tow. Embla is such a gem, you would want to take your favourite people over for a treat. We had the opportunity to try Chef Jim's signature Gubbröra during my second visit and it's an exquisite expression of smoked and pickled fish and caviar. Give me a goblet of Gubbröra and a bottle of Solaris any day.

Everything about embla, the food, the hospitality, and even the playlist, subtly but surely draws you in.

As I'm writing this blog post, I know the restaurant is undergoing a light interior refresh as the embla team also takes their summer holidays. They will be back for service on 12 August, with a new summer menu, and I cannot wait to visit them again.

Next time you have a special occasion, I highly recommend going to embla for a treat - you will be spoilt in the best ways possible.